It's done said Frodo!
And so is my Sea Vixen. The application of the decals was a true marathon. I hit the wall at one point thinking I would never get to the end of it but fortunately I did. There has to be around 500 individual decals on this model ranging from the large wing numbers to tiny decals the size of a pin head.
They clearly make the model however, I used Micro sol and Micro set in their application and then put a coat of Tamiya clear coat over them to lock them in.
The model was completed with a couple of coats of Model master Semi-Gloss lacquer.
Canopies were dipped in Pledge with Future to brighten them up.
I made a few mistakes on the model such as messing up some of the decals but overall I am really pleased. Airfix have produced a lovely model that goes together well and has a pleasing level of detail.
As for the after market bits that I used I think most of them were not really necessary except for the True Detail Ejection seats. They really add something to the kit.
So here are a few pictures of the finished article along with a snap shot of all the things I used to build this model. Hope you like it and are inspired to make your own one day.
Showing posts with label Airfix Sea Vixen. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Airfix Sea Vixen. Show all posts
Friday, March 30, 2012
Friday, March 9, 2012
Airfix Sea Vixen build - part five
Finally got the main paint scheme sprayed on. Couple of coats rubbed down with micromesh in between. Finally a couple of coats of Tamiya XF-22 Clear coat to help lock everything in and provide a smooth surface for decal application.
In the first picture here you can see I have attached the refuelling probe. This is in fact an after market item from www.luckymodel.com . They sell a pack with replacement resin wing hinges and it also includes a brass refuelling probe and two very fine alloy pitot tubes. I didn't need the hinges but the probe and tubes are excellent, and robust.
Next to the aircraft you can see the probe from the kit and one of the new pitot tubes.
Next step is to start applying the decals. This looks like it is going to be a marathon job. We'll see.
In the first picture here you can see I have attached the refuelling probe. This is in fact an after market item from www.luckymodel.com . They sell a pack with replacement resin wing hinges and it also includes a brass refuelling probe and two very fine alloy pitot tubes. I didn't need the hinges but the probe and tubes are excellent, and robust.
Next to the aircraft you can see the probe from the kit and one of the new pitot tubes.
Next step is to start applying the decals. This looks like it is going to be a marathon job. We'll see.
Tuesday, February 21, 2012
Airfix Sea Vixen build - part four
I feel a little guilty having started these few blog pages to cover my Sea Vixen build only to have raced ahead somewhat without posting any updates. Actually raced is probably not the right word. Since I put the fuselage halves together after completing the cockpit I have spent some time getting to know Mr Surfacer products.
I used Mr Surfacer 500 as a filler for the few tiny gaps and imperfections I had to deal with. In fact the most notable was the one along the side of the nose which did not take much to eradicate. The Mr Surfacer product is great. Its easy to apply with a brush, dries within an hour or so and is made of such a fine compound that sanding it to shape is so very easy.
Anyway I took my time and then followed up with attaching the wings, tail booms etc and finishing off any imperfections resulting. Once done I gave the whole model a spray with Mr Surfacer 1200. This stuff is outstanding as a primer. It is so smooth especially after a light polish with some Micro-Mesh 6000 from Revell.
So here are a few pictures of where I am up to right now. I have already sprayed the underside white and applied Tamiya masking tape over the white in preparation for the Dark Sea Grey upper surface color. I love this tape. I generally just use the 10mm variety and a very sharp knife to cut edges around shapes. Couldn't be easier.
I am using Vallejo Air spray paints which go straight from bottle to air brush with no thinning - good for me! I am not an expert with an air brush this being only my third model where I have actually used on in anger however I learned the importance of keeping your brush clean with this project. After dragging out my basic Testors brush to do the white I found it was past redemption so went out and bought a new Badger 350 that was on clearance at my local Michael's store. This is a basic brush but its is just fine for painting large surfaces such as aircraft fuselages AND its way easier to keep clean than the Testor brush I had.
A first for me on this model was pre shading some of the panel lines on the underside before applying the white. Works a treat so hopefully will show that off when I get to the finish.
I used Mr Surfacer 500 as a filler for the few tiny gaps and imperfections I had to deal with. In fact the most notable was the one along the side of the nose which did not take much to eradicate. The Mr Surfacer product is great. Its easy to apply with a brush, dries within an hour or so and is made of such a fine compound that sanding it to shape is so very easy.
Anyway I took my time and then followed up with attaching the wings, tail booms etc and finishing off any imperfections resulting. Once done I gave the whole model a spray with Mr Surfacer 1200. This stuff is outstanding as a primer. It is so smooth especially after a light polish with some Micro-Mesh 6000 from Revell.
So here are a few pictures of where I am up to right now. I have already sprayed the underside white and applied Tamiya masking tape over the white in preparation for the Dark Sea Grey upper surface color. I love this tape. I generally just use the 10mm variety and a very sharp knife to cut edges around shapes. Couldn't be easier.
I am using Vallejo Air spray paints which go straight from bottle to air brush with no thinning - good for me! I am not an expert with an air brush this being only my third model where I have actually used on in anger however I learned the importance of keeping your brush clean with this project. After dragging out my basic Testors brush to do the white I found it was past redemption so went out and bought a new Badger 350 that was on clearance at my local Michael's store. This is a basic brush but its is just fine for painting large surfaces such as aircraft fuselages AND its way easier to keep clean than the Testor brush I had.
A first for me on this model was pre shading some of the panel lines on the underside before applying the white. Works a treat so hopefully will show that off when I get to the finish.
Saturday, February 4, 2012
Airfix Sea Vixen build - part three
With the seat finally finished off I began putting the fuselage together. The fit of the parts is really good. Judicious use of clamps and elastic bands ensures everything sets up tight with no gaps. The join line between the two halves forward of the cockpit will need some sanding and maybe a little cyanoacrylate to make it disappear but nothing horrendous.
I have continued to use the Eduard etch components where I felt comfortable. This included the air brake and the arrestor hook area.
Here are some pictures of the cockpit after the fuselage halves have been joined.
A few points worth noting. I am using this web site as a color reference for the airframe Thunder & Lightnings so the wheel wells, airbrake inner area and arrestor hook inner area got a coat of light grey before going into the fuselage halves. The air brake door, arrestor hook door and the area of the wings which are under the flaps all got a coat of white.
Following this the areas got some weathering with a very thin black ink wash.
I have continued to use the Eduard etch components where I felt comfortable. This included the air brake and the arrestor hook area.
Here are some pictures of the cockpit after the fuselage halves have been joined.
A few points worth noting. I am using this web site as a color reference for the airframe Thunder & Lightnings so the wheel wells, airbrake inner area and arrestor hook inner area got a coat of light grey before going into the fuselage halves. The air brake door, arrestor hook door and the area of the wings which are under the flaps all got a coat of white.
Following this the areas got some weathering with a very thin black ink wash.
Saturday, January 21, 2012
Airfix Sea Vixen build - part two
Martin Baker ejector seats
As I have mentioned I purchased the True Details Martin Baker seats from Squadron. These resin parts have terrific detail and are both represented with different arrangements of straps to add to the authenticity.
I used this resource Nick Park photographs on Flickr for the paint scheme following it as best I could. I ended up using Calthan Brown, Commando Khaki, Bleached bone, Grey blue, Black Green, Golden Yellow, Flat read and Chainmail to get the look. Its a shame most of the detail will be hidden in the cockpit but I was really please that the green control box on the right hand side is visible from the navigator position.
The next picturs I post will show these seats in position in the cockpit.
Comments, suggestions always welcome.
As I have mentioned I purchased the True Details Martin Baker seats from Squadron. These resin parts have terrific detail and are both represented with different arrangements of straps to add to the authenticity.
I used this resource Nick Park photographs on Flickr for the paint scheme following it as best I could. I ended up using Calthan Brown, Commando Khaki, Bleached bone, Grey blue, Black Green, Golden Yellow, Flat read and Chainmail to get the look. Its a shame most of the detail will be hidden in the cockpit but I was really please that the green control box on the right hand side is visible from the navigator position.
The next picturs I post will show these seats in position in the cockpit.
Comments, suggestions always welcome.
Thursday, January 5, 2012
Airfix Sea Vixen build - part one
Before starting on the project I did some research around the net looking for other people's builds and recommendations.
One of the first things I struggled with was how to do the cockpit. On the airfixtributeforum I found a very nice build by DH764 that used only the kit provided parts. Then on the Military Modelling site I found Keith Christie's lovely build in which he used the early allied jets decals from AirScale .
Pavla have a resin version of the cockpit which include seats as does Aires
Finally Eduard have an etch package that includes two etches, one of which is colored cockpit components.
As some of you may know there are a number of other secondary market items out there for this kit including wheel wells, air brake, undercarriage legs, wing fold mechanisms and cockpit seats.
In the end I decided to go for the Eduard Etch for a couple of reasons. Firstly I had seen the True Detail resin ejector seats for this model and they are outstanding. Secondly I wanted to give my cockpit a little more than a straight out of the box build, finally the full Eduard etch pack includes items for the air brake, undercarriage and other assorted items on the aircraft so I knew if I felt brave enough I could add a few other elements to the model.
So off to Squadron I went to order the etch along with the True Detail seats some new undercarriage legs and an Eduard mask for the cockpit glazing.
For those of you that have built kits using an etch before this is probably old hat but I'm an etch virgin so it took a deal of courage to start filing off the original kit detail in order to fit the etch parts. And aren't they tiny!!
In my mind you have to prepare yourself to do this kind of work. Its a real challenge and worth the effort but preparation is key. The Eduard instructions are very good so I followed their sequence and took it one part at a time. Some parts could be handled with fingers and tweezers, others needed trusty cocktail sticks and a bit of spit to pick them up. By planning each move how I was going to cut, move fit and (if necessary) glue a part I built up what I think is a special looking cockpit.
Painting was straightorwardf, lots of black! However, I tried out a technique I had read about to create the impression of worn metal. I ffirst sprayed gunmetal then when dry I brushed warm water where I wanted to represent the worn metal and then sprinkled salt on to the water. Once the water had dried off I oversprayed with black. Once dried I could wash off the salt with warm water and I was left with worn looking parts. Some of it is very subtle other parts less so, it really depends on how haevy you go with the salt. It worked for me anyway.
Next up the Martin Baker ejection seats from True Detail.
One of the first things I struggled with was how to do the cockpit. On the airfixtributeforum I found a very nice build by DH764 that used only the kit provided parts. Then on the Military Modelling site I found Keith Christie's lovely build in which he used the early allied jets decals from AirScale .
Pavla have a resin version of the cockpit which include seats as does Aires
Finally Eduard have an etch package that includes two etches, one of which is colored cockpit components.
As some of you may know there are a number of other secondary market items out there for this kit including wheel wells, air brake, undercarriage legs, wing fold mechanisms and cockpit seats.
In the end I decided to go for the Eduard Etch for a couple of reasons. Firstly I had seen the True Detail resin ejector seats for this model and they are outstanding. Secondly I wanted to give my cockpit a little more than a straight out of the box build, finally the full Eduard etch pack includes items for the air brake, undercarriage and other assorted items on the aircraft so I knew if I felt brave enough I could add a few other elements to the model.
So off to Squadron I went to order the etch along with the True Detail seats some new undercarriage legs and an Eduard mask for the cockpit glazing.
For those of you that have built kits using an etch before this is probably old hat but I'm an etch virgin so it took a deal of courage to start filing off the original kit detail in order to fit the etch parts. And aren't they tiny!!
In my mind you have to prepare yourself to do this kind of work. Its a real challenge and worth the effort but preparation is key. The Eduard instructions are very good so I followed their sequence and took it one part at a time. Some parts could be handled with fingers and tweezers, others needed trusty cocktail sticks and a bit of spit to pick them up. By planning each move how I was going to cut, move fit and (if necessary) glue a part I built up what I think is a special looking cockpit.
Painting was straightorwardf, lots of black! However, I tried out a technique I had read about to create the impression of worn metal. I ffirst sprayed gunmetal then when dry I brushed warm water where I wanted to represent the worn metal and then sprinkled salt on to the water. Once the water had dried off I oversprayed with black. Once dried I could wash off the salt with warm water and I was left with worn looking parts. Some of it is very subtle other parts less so, it really depends on how haevy you go with the salt. It worked for me anyway.
Next up the Martin Baker ejection seats from True Detail.
Monday, January 2, 2012
Clearing the decks part one
Building model plastic construction kits was something I got in to at a very early age, probably like most people. I started out building the Series One Airfix kits in little bags that my dad bought me at the weekends. As I got into my teens I built larger projects (Saturn V Rocket springs to mind) until I discovered other more interesting things to do with my free time.
Fast forward to recent times. The quality of kits available has improved enormously, my skills are a little better now and with the masses of available resources from model making masters out there it is easier to make a real eye catching model to be proud of.
So when I received an Airfix 1/48 scale Sea Vixen kit for Christmas from my very bright sister I had to change my approach to my hobby time.
I usually have two or three projects on the go at any one time and for the past couple of years they have all been miniatures or in a couple of cases some model specifically for the miniatures. But this Sea Vixen will demand a great deal of attention if I am to do the kit justice.
As most people will know the Sea Vixen from Airfix is a part of that companies resurgence. Having been saved from the scrap heap the company is now reinvigorated as a significant model making company again. Just like the 1/24 scale Mosquito (which I have waiting in the closet) this is a completely new model of an intriguing subject. The quality of the kit is up there with the best of them.
In order to give this kit the attention it deserves I finished up all my projects, totally cleared off my work area, cleaned all the surfaces, repositioned the lights and only brought back in to the work area those tools I know I will need for the project.
The first item to be finished off was two DBA armies I had been working on. After having watched the movie Centurion I determined to fight some Pict versus Roman battles of my own. I bought my miniatures from Essex Miniatures and painted them up using the Osprey Reference Warrior 50 and pictures of similar models I found on the internet.
The Romans benefited from some shield transfers from Little Big Men Studios but I still need a few more so I have some transfers in the mail from Veni Vidi Vici to complete the auxilliaries.
Fast forward to recent times. The quality of kits available has improved enormously, my skills are a little better now and with the masses of available resources from model making masters out there it is easier to make a real eye catching model to be proud of.
So when I received an Airfix 1/48 scale Sea Vixen kit for Christmas from my very bright sister I had to change my approach to my hobby time.
I usually have two or three projects on the go at any one time and for the past couple of years they have all been miniatures or in a couple of cases some model specifically for the miniatures. But this Sea Vixen will demand a great deal of attention if I am to do the kit justice.
As most people will know the Sea Vixen from Airfix is a part of that companies resurgence. Having been saved from the scrap heap the company is now reinvigorated as a significant model making company again. Just like the 1/24 scale Mosquito (which I have waiting in the closet) this is a completely new model of an intriguing subject. The quality of the kit is up there with the best of them.
In order to give this kit the attention it deserves I finished up all my projects, totally cleared off my work area, cleaned all the surfaces, repositioned the lights and only brought back in to the work area those tools I know I will need for the project.
The first item to be finished off was two DBA armies I had been working on. After having watched the movie Centurion I determined to fight some Pict versus Roman battles of my own. I bought my miniatures from Essex Miniatures and painted them up using the Osprey Reference Warrior 50 and pictures of similar models I found on the internet.
The Romans benefited from some shield transfers from Little Big Men Studios but I still need a few more so I have some transfers in the mail from Veni Vidi Vici to complete the auxilliaries.
| Roman Generals view of the field |
| Cataphracts |
| The Legion arriving |
| Pict army waiting to pounce |
| The Picts |
| Pictish hardmen |
| Roman Legion |
| The General |
| Ballista |
| Not to be messed with. |
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